Film Verses Digital � What�s the Difference Anyway?

In the old days, if your camera (35mm of course) had a battery die on you in the middle of an important shoot, you still had options. I mean after all; the only thing you needed the battery for was the light meter, it’s not like your whole camera will shut down if you have no battery. Oh, I’m sorry... if you are using all digital that might have stung just a little bit.

The point was if your battery died, you still had a way to get a good picture. If you were using 100 speed film you could set your shutter speed to whatever the flash sync speed was (usually 1/60th or 1/125th of a second), set your f-stop to f-16, and bracket every shot. Besides the obvious dependency on batteries, there are other differences between film and digital cameras.

If you have ever shopped for a digital camera you have no doubt heard the phrase: “35mm equivalent”. This means that the optics are not exactly the same in a digital camera. Since the 35mm slr camera has been the standard for so long, that’s what newer cameras are compared to. The difference between the two is a ratio of 1: 1 . 4. Simply put, a 35-200 zoom on a digital camera would be like having a 49-280 zoom lens on a traditional 35mm camera.

The main reason the optics are different is because the sensor (the device that actually reads the light) is also a different size. Film cameras use film (sensitive to light) that is placed directly behind the lens. When the correct exposure is calculated, that image is literately burned into the film. digital cameras use a sensor; that also sits behind the lens. This sensor is made up of millions of individual points that each represents 1 pixel. Once the sensor has gathered the information for each pixel it transfers that data to a digital media card (which can be used repeatedly. )

The sensor is the physical device that gathers information about the quality of light coming into the camera. The process of “how” the sensor goes about gathering information is referred to as “metering”. The human eye can distinguish a range of about 16 different f-stops; camera meters only have a range of about 5 f-stops. This is why camera meters are calibrated for a “mid range” exposure of 18% gray, because 90% of the time that is as close as they can get to the human eye. It’s not the camera’s fault that it can not see as well as you do, it’s simply a fact of life.

There are basically only three types of metering systems.

A) Spot Metering
B) Center-Weighted Metering
C) Matrix Metering

Spot metering as the name indicates only reads a small spot or portion of the overall image (usually 1% to 3%). This type of metering is useful in any situation where the lighting is extreme. Backlit subjects, macro shots, or even pictures of the moon can benefit from this type of metering. This type of metering is usually found on the more costly upper end cameras.

Center-Weighted metering averages the overall scene with an emphasis on the center area of the frame. Usually this type of meter bases its reading with 75% of the light hitting center frame and 25% for everything else. It assumes that the subject is dead center, most of the time. It is worth noting that most center weighted systems have a greater sensitivity in the bottom half of the frame; to avoid an overly contrasting sky from throwing off the readings. This type of system is the most common used in both digital and traditional cameras today.

Matrix Metering splits your image up into anywhere from 3 to 16 metering zones and evaluates the different zones to come up with one over all reading. In this process of evaluation it takes into account factors like: subject size, position, distance, point of focus, over all lighting, color and more. This system uses a microchip which has been exposed to thousands of different picture-taking situations. Currently this is the most complex and the most accurate metering system to date. This system is usually found on the higher end digital slr’s.

I used the word “digital” several times, but these are the same types of metering systems used in traditional film cameras as well. The only other way of reading light has to do with “reflected light” verses “surface light”. Most meters in the camera are reading reflected light (light reflected off the main subject that goes back toward the camera. ) Every so often you might see someone with a hand held light meter that will go right up to the subject and read the light that falls on the surface of that subject. Some photographers still debate which way is more accurate. In my opinion; “Spot Metering” does basically the same thing.

All photographers have their favorites; Canon, Nikon, Kodak. Some choose digital, some choose film. The thing to remember is what we actually need to get a great photo. Things like composition, leading lines, framing, and the rule of thirds are much more important to our success as great photographers than the physical tools we use. On the other hand, knowing what your camera can or can not do, let’s you know if you have the right tool for the job.

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The Best Wildlife Camera To Take On Safari

Good wildlife camera equipment on safari can make the difference between pictures you will be proud to show your friends and family when you get back and ones where it's difficult to figure out exactly what you were photographing because it's only a fuzzy black dot surrounded by green vegetation.

I take wildlife photographs for a living and I have had to quickly figure out what the best cameras and lenses are to get the job done effectively.

Digital or Film - Which is better for a safari?

Wild animals are very unpredictable. That's one aspect of safari photography that makes it so exciting because you never know what you are going to get but this also means that the number of pictures you need to take to get a keeper increases.

And if you use film that can become very expensive whereas with a digital wildlife camera you can take as many as you want and then just delete the ones where the lion has ducked behind a bush, the cheetah has blurred because the autofocus locked onto a twig in front of it and the exposure of the hippo was way off because of the reflected sunlight in the water.

You can also make consistent use of bracketing to get the perfect exposures without worrying about cost or running out of film which can be a problem in certain remote areas of Africa where safaris take place.

So more is better in this case but what about quality? The fact is that digital quality is fast catching up to film unless you fall into the professional category and are going to be selling your safari pictures or entering them into competitions. In that case it might be better to stick to film because the trained eye will be able to spot the difference but in most other cases digital quality is more than adequate.

Digital also gives you valuable feedback while you are still on safari so that you can try and improve on that elephant picture with the ear cut off the next day. You also have a lot more control over the final product because you can use software like photoshop to enhance and fine tune your pictures.

Digital slr or Compact Wildlife camera

A safari is the dream trip of a lifetime and it's a great opportunity to get some fantastic wildlife pictures but it's not necessary to buy the latest and greatest digital slr and lenses to get them unless you are planning to take nature pictures for a living or are a serious photography enthusiast and are going to make regular use of the camera and lenses after the safari anyway.

The cost of a digital slr wildlife camera is high compared to a compact but that is only half the story. The lenses that you need to purchase for decent wildlife photography often cost more than the camera itself making it a very expensive business indeed.

And a bulky camera body and multiple interchangeable lenses do add to the weight of your luggage and the inconvenience of carrying everything around with you.

Digital compact cameras on the other hand are not extremely expensive and the results that you can obtain from them are almost on a par with a digital slr camera and you don't have to worry about any additional lenses if the compact you buy has a decent zoom covering the range from 80mm to about 300mm. There are a few of them on the market that do have lenses like this and the range of the zooms increase every year.

And compact cameras live up to their name by being relatively small and light and one lens means no additional weight or carrying and no time wasted changing to another lens to suit the situation.

The Best slr digital Wildlife camera for Nature photography

If you have decided to go with a digital slr then by all accounts the best one to purchase for wildlife photography at the moment is the Canon EOS 20D due to the blinding speed of its shutter release (near instantaneous) and its continuous shooting speed of 5 frames per second to a maximum burst depth of twenty three frames. It also powers up in next to no time at all.

This wildlife camera is as fast as you will ever need to freeze wildlife action and get the picture in the can before the animal moves off into the undergrowth.

There are other slr cameras that are nearly as good like the Nikon D70 and the Pentax ist D so take a look at them too before making a decision.

The Best Compact digital Wildlife camera for Nature photography

Canon comes up trumps again in the compact camera category with the Canon Powershot S2 IS. The factor that makes this camera ideal for safari wildlife photography is its huge 12X optical zoom lens (36 - 432mm equivalent) with a built in image stabiliser which cuts down on blur when using such a massive zoom lens.

A 5 megapixal sensor is more than enough to produce stunning safari images and as long as you can live with a slight shutter release lag and power up delay this compact wildlife camera is perfect for a safari trip.

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Buying A Digital SLR Camera - What To Look For

For many photography enthusiasts, owning a digital SLR camera is an important first step. There are a number of different makes and models of SLR cameras out there - they come in a variety of speeds and megapixels and all have a range of camera accessories. Learn about how DSLR cameras work and what to look for before you make your purchase.

What is a DSLR camera?

SLR stands for single lens reflex since you are looking at the actual image through the single lens. The image passes through the camera lens to a mirror that then reflects the light upward to a pentaprism or pentamirror before being reflected again through the viewfinder, where you can see what's actually in the frame. When the shutter button is pressed, the first mirror flips up so that the light passes through the shutter, thereby capturing the image.

SLR cameras allow for more accurate composition and colour balance since what you see through the viewfinder will be what you get in the final picture. Traditional SLR cameras used film but today's digital SLR cameras allow for digital capture so that you can review your images instantly.

How to choose a DSLR camera that's right for you

There are plenty of variations between the different types, makes and models of DSLR cameras. Choosing the best DSLR camera for your needs depends on how you intend to use the machine - and the amount you're willing to spend. Here are some points to keep in mind:

Cost - Your budget will determine the type of SLR camera you purchase. Remember that in addition to buying the camera body, it'll be worthwhile to invest in a couple of camera lenses as well. A good telephoto zoom lens, for example , is great for getting up close to your subject matter, while a wide angle lens increases the angle of your view so you can get more in the shot. You might also look into buying camera accessories, including filters, a camera bag or even an extra battery to make the most of your investment.

Megapixels - most of today's DSLR cameras start at about 8 MP and can go up to 24 MP or more. Having more megapixels means you get better resolution, which is great for large prints or for enlarging smaller parts of your image. Keep in mind that having more megapixels isn't the only way to get quality pictures. For example , in low lighting, too high a megapixel count could mean your photos end up with a bit of "noise" as your camera sensor might not capture the correct colour tone for every pixel, creating a bit of speckling in the image. Meanwhile, professionals may want a high megapixel count for large prints, such as billboards, or if they are significantly enlarging a small area of the final image. When deciding on how many megapixels you'll need, think about what you'll be using the photos for and whether you're looking for images to publish online, make personal prints or sell in a professional publication.

Speed - DSLR cameras are much quicker than the typical digital camera. You'll notice reduced shutter lag (the delay between pushing the button and actually capturing the image) with your DSLR. If you'll be shooting lots of action shots then you'll likely want a faster model.

Choosing the right digital SLR camera means doing your homework and finding out more information about the different options that are available, so you can be sure you'll get the results you want. Ask friends and families or look for an online forum and gain some valuable insights and tips from the experts.

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